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January 9, 2024
In the Studio

The Evolution of Elegance: A Journey Through the History of the Doorman Coat

I

n the grand tapestry of fashion history, certain garments stand out, not just for their aesthetic appeal, but also for their functional significance and the stories they carry. One such garment is the iconic doorman coat. The doorman coat, with its timeless elegance and practical design, is one piece that has played a crucial role in both fashion and functionality. A symbol of elegance, tradition, and service. A garment that intertwines with societal shifts and cultural changes.

Image: Studio 104 x Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park London

The Birth of the Doorman Coat:

The doorman coat, also known as a uniform or great coat, can be traced back to the 19th century. During this time, the need for businesses to present an air of prestige and exclusivity begun. Initially, these coats were simple and practical, designed to provide warmth and protection to the doormen who braved the elements while stationed outside prestigious hotels, theatres, and private clubs.

Early doorman coats were often long, heavy garments made form durable fabrics like wool or broad cloth. The length and structure of the coat conveyed a sense of formality and prestige, aligning with the growing emphasis on social status during the Victorian era. As society evolved, so did fashion and so the doorman coat underwent transformations that reflected this. During the Victorian era, doorman coats began to take on a more elegant and refined appearance. Rich fabrics such as wool and velvet became popular choices, and intricate detailing, including brass buttons and embroidered insignias, added a touch of sophistication to the garments.

As the 20th Century begun, the doorman coat underwent significant transformations, reflecting the changing dynamics of society. During the 1920’s, an era synonymous with luxury and sophistication, doorman coats became more tailored and refined. The introduction of high-quality fabrics such as cashmere and fine wool, elevated the status of these coast, making them uniform with luxury and elegance.  This period also saw them incorporate decorative elements like gold or brass buttons, braiding, and unique insignias. These details not only added flair to the doorman’s attire, but also show the identity of the establishment they represented. Hotels, theatres, and exclusive clubs adopted the doorman coat as an integral part of their brand image.

World War Influence:

The start of the second world wat brought a temporary disruption in the development of the doorman coat. With resources now deterred towards war, uniform designs became more utilitarian, empathizing how the times now reflected practicality over opulence. Shortages of certain fabrics led to innovations in materials, with coats often made from durable and affordable alternatives such as gabardine. Post-war societies desire for elegance and sophistication rekindled after the war and lead to a new focus on quality materials and craftsmanship. The 1950’s & 1960’s saw a revival of tailored and structured doorman coats, with references to the classic styles of the past.    

Contemporary Adaptations:

As fashion continued to evolve, so did the doorman coat. In the second half of the 20thCentury, contemporary designers began to experiment with different styles and cuts. Double breasted and single-breasted variations emerged. Beyond the aesthetic evolution, the doorman coat has come to symbolize more than just a uniform. It stands as a symbol of service, reliability, and the establishmentsit represents. The doorman, dressed in their distinctive coat, has become an emblem of hospitality and professionalism. The first impression of the establishment  

Image: Studio 104 x Chataeu Denmark

The history of the doorman coat is a testament to its enduring relevance and adaptability. From its humble beginnings as a practical garment for protection against the elements, the doorman coat has evolved into a symbol of elegance and professionalism. It continues to play asignificant role in creating the distinctive and prestigious image for its establishment. The doorman coat stands as a testament to the power of timeless style. As we continue to see it being worn at the entrances of elite establishments, we can appreciate the history and cultural significance that this garments brings to the world of fashion.

Image: Studio 104 x Chatsworth House

To discover more Studio 104 bespoke wardrobe projects visit our portfolio page, and to learn more about our 104 Collection head here.

Written by Poppy – Senior Production Coordinator

Follow us - www.instagram.com/studio104london/

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