LONDON FASHION WEEK SS23 - THE MENSWEAR SEASON
ondon Fashion Week is a key date in the year for design inspiration. It gives our designers an insight into the predicted trends of what’s to come, keeping our uniform designs not only practical and functional for working, but also modern and up to date.
Last week at London Spring Summer 23 shows we saw a more toned-down approach. With only three months before the next event in September, designers showcased a more intimate selection of designs with alighter schedule of shows, with the focus being on menswear, desi ners offered amore blended selection of both male and female designs.
With London still buzzing from Jubilee celebrations, and despite the smaller scale, the city did what it does best; providing a platform for energetic, emerging designers, allowing them to show off a selection of upcoming designs. Here’s some of our favourite shows of the season.
Inspired by eBay’s ugliest, funniest and most charming’ t-shirts, Dublin-Designer Robyn Lynch presented a new take on mundane menswear pieces that for the most part, people don’t notice. A care-free collection that focuses purely on creative expression, injecting fine textiles and carefully crafted shapes into slogan t-shirts, woven two-pieces, nylon cargo pants, sliced Aran jumpers and sleeveless zip-ups. Packed with colour, acid-rave smileys and cartoon references, this collection is nothing short of eye-turning. There was emphasis on the small details — for example, the room was fragranced with the scent of Nivea Suncream, something Lynch says was an iconic scent from her childhood during the summer months. Her collection featured brightly coloured trousers and shorts, fun graphic tees, experimental knitwear pieces, all paired with matching crocs shoes.
Labrums shows have often been quoted as a frequent hit byaudience members. And this season’s showing was no different. Titled ‘Freedom of Movement’ LaBrum designer and founder, Foday Dumbuya who himself was born inSierra Leone before moving to the UK, celebrated the concept of borderlesssociety that sees different cultures living side by side. The collection, whichis hinged on tailoring, something that Dumbuya does well, featured standouts like the diamond-cut blazers, tailored boiler suits and impressive double-breasted suits. As with any LaBrum runway show, the soundtrack was provided by musicians Freetown Uncut, Drizilik and DJ Rampage, whom Dumbuya had flown over from Sierra Leone, helping bring the show to life.
Former Yeezy designer Alicia Robinson debuted her AGR brand at LFW THIS June, designers like Alicia often enjoy a Summer show as it enables a longer buying window. Its also given emerging designers that did show more of a platform to get press coverageand attention on their collection. The AGR show took place inside Fabric, one of the city’s most popular nightclubs. Robinson, who has previously worked with Nike on a series of upcycling workshops, was supported by the sportswear brand to secure the venue.
AGR’s sales are under £1 million but growing fast — climbing 122 per cent year on year in 2021, according to the brand. LFW gave Robinson the opportunity to show how AGR is evolving beyond the knitwear for which she isk nown, into swimwear and accessories.
To embrace colour, confidence and extravagance once againis moreover the theme of the entire week. As a dynamic display of fresh design,the shows have allowed a new showcase of designers to emerge on the scene. Other highlights of the week include Nina Doroushi, Justin Cassin & Carolta Barrera.
London's vast array of exhibitions offer a huge amount of inspiration to our teams across design, product development and production. To understand how these creative exhibitions have informed Studio 104's bespoke uniform projects head to our portfolio page. For our detailed and unique process, from uniform concept to manufacture and delivery, head to our process page.
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Written by Esme – Studio Admin Assistant
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