London Fashion Week: Autmun / Winter 2023

ondon is one of the biggest fashion capitals, welcoming every year visitors from across the world. This season they came to participate in the AW23 LFW. There's no doubt British design it’s renowned by many and here is a summary of the highlights from last week.

Another year, another week and designers have shown us a diversity that not only include clothes, but nowadays fashion has also become more a statement of ideas and beliefs. It’s about expression, values stood for, and an artistic exhibition.

Burberry

Founded in 1856 and globally known for its classic trench and signature plaid, Burberry is one of the most recognisable brands in the world and has a rich history attached to it. This edition had extra buzz surrounding it, as last season the runway show was cancelled with the passing of Queen Elizabeth II and there's a new creative director Daniel Lee at the helm. His idea about brand functionality was reflected on 'normal' garments, running away from the glamour of previous interpretations.

The collection is inspired by the late 19th and early 20th century tents, which has been transmitted by the location and interior of the show. Lee has paid tribute to the brand roots with more modern and positive vibes, bright hues of purple and yellow, fur-lined footwear and its signature trench coat also adorned with faux-fur. 

Richard Quinn

Richard Quinn is expected to deliver a spectacle and this year was no different. He presented the audience with a secret garden, fresh flowers, and live music from the English Chamber Orchestra, followed by latex-clad ballet cats who positioned themselves throughout the space.

But unlike the designer’s usual propensity for big displays, this collection focused on elegance inspired by Parisian haute couture. Key core designs were placed on sophisticated silhouettes, soft, fabrics, floral prints, and glittering appliqué adornments, with models gliding gracefully down the runway.

Simone Rocha

In contrast to her usual creative process to fairy tales and emotional reflection, the Irish designer’s inspiration for this season comes from the rituals surrounding Lughnasadh, the festival of harvest in Ireland. She explored storytelling and implemented small nuances related to the theme throughout her collection. Motifs of the harvest come to life in the form of weaving, macrame, raffia and embroidery, echoing the appearance of wheat bundled together for reaping.

Dilara Findikoglu

“I have been drowning in the fine line between my craft and the disaster for the last two weeks but I decided to do what I do best, use my voice as much as I can.”

And the Turkish heritage designer has done it well, her collection was a real representation of the current challenges facing the world.

Entitled “Not a Man’s Territory”, every model has represented a character and all together enhanced the female self-possession. It was angry, feminist, sexual, political, and yet beautiful. A collection built with sensual looks, latex tights, clips and metal fastenings. Models dropping their demure coverings, and lingerie dripping in crystals was intended to make the viewer feel awkward.

S.S Daley

Since the designer won last year’s LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, he has become a name well known within the emerging British designers.

The show opened with Alfred Tennyson poem read by Sir Ian McKellen. His Shakespearean lilt spoke of mighty waves and roaring voices was delivered with a presence enhancing even more of the concept “Lost at Sea”.

Nautical references can be found throughout the collection, from the sailor collars to his take on the naval stripe, featuring SS logos integrated into design. Luxury yet understated, traditional yet modern, S.S.DALEY's collections are in a world of their own.

Covering these key dates in the fashion calendar offer a huge amount of inspiration to the Studio 104 design, production development and production team. To see how these creative elements have informed our bespoke uniforms head to our portfolio page. For our detailled and unique process, from uniform concept to manufacture and delivery, head to our process page.

Written by Cristina - Studio Administrative & Development Assistant

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