Tailoring Tips to Quietly Boast Your Sartorial Cachet

hen it comes to selecting uniform for men, sharp tailoring is a favourable choice for communicating formality and professionalism. But how best to wear these pieces? Insight of traditional menswear ‘rules’ can be especially creditable with discerning clientele in the luxury sector, who are often schooled in sartorial do’s and don’ts.

We’ve put together a few of the best ways to demonstrate elegance and understanding when wearing your tailored uniform.

Starting with buttoning; whether you’re opting for bespoke or 104 Collection jackets it’s important to know how to wear them to complete the overall look.  A waist button has been placed at the narrowest part of all of our jackets and this is the one that should be fastened. On a three button jacket it is the centre button and on a two button jacket it is the top. The same applies for double breasted jackets; fasten the internal and waist buttons only.

(Photography – © Jamie Ferguson)

Another great tip, and one with several originating theories behind it, is to leave the bottom single breasted waistcoat button unfastened. It’s suggested this rule was popularised by Edward VII who, due to his physique, couldn’t fasten it.  To save his embarrassment, those associated with him would follow suit.

Another more practical reasoning suggested the last button was left undone in order to ride horseback more comfortably. The rules for double breasted waistcoats are little more flexible. You may choose to suggest these are completely fastened for formality, or you may want to ensure consistency if both single and double breasted waistcoats are worn in the same vicinity.

(Photography – © Mohan Singh)

Finally; trouser length. The correct length of trouser can really enhance the overall aesthetic of a uniform and, indeed, any look. They should have one clean break in the front and none at the back. This ultimately lengthens the silhouette without exposing the ankle when you walk.  Because this can be difficult to achieve, both our bespoke uniform and 104 collection trousers all arrive unhemmed.

(Photography – © Rod Lockyer)

It really is all in the details and whilst these may go unnoticed by some, there are certainly those who will appreciate the endeavour to keep these traditions alive.

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