LFWM AW20: Conscious Style, Punk Tailoring & Smart Shoes

here is nowhere better to find inspiration for our bespoke uniform concepts than right here in London's fashion shows. A well established creative hotbed, each season throws up fantastic ideas to consider for modern uniform designs that we know our luxury hotel, restaurant and retail clients desire.

Bright eyed and bushy tailed the first of the year is always London's Autumn/Winter 2020 menswear collections. The city has become known for emerging talent much like in the great tradition of wild child favourites - Vivienne Westwood and Alexander Mcqueen. London Fashion Week Mens is absolutely the place to find exciting ideas in action, where rules are often broken and the punk spirit is full flow.

Three key areas stood out and are likely to endure in the years ahead. The first is the insatiable buzz around sustainability and conscious fashion. Next is the lawless overthrowing of Savile Row, left in the hands of the Sex Pistols. And finally men's smart shoes are back.

Conscious Style & Growth in Sustainability

Upcycling, re-purposing, organic, sustainable & conscious - are certainly the words 'du jour' - and the sounding bell of change in contemporary fashion with London’s menswear designers leading the way.

Emerging talent Bethany Williams has based her entire business model around social enterprise, building partnerships with a selection of charities who tackle homelessness and domestic abuse. Her new collection of multi-colour patchworks is made in collaboration with female ex-offenders who are trained by London College of Fashion.

Fresh from winning the H&M Design Award 2019, Priya Ahluwalia produced a show based entirely on re-used textiles and minimal processes. Her inspiration this season comes from Barbara Brown – a British print designer famed for her luxurious work at Heal’s during the 60s and 70s.

Punk Tailoring Takeover

Taking on the wonderful tradition of London tailoring known the world over in Savile Row, a whole new generation of designers are going wild and punky with their suit designs.

Wales Bonner went for patchwork suits and contrast pockets along with incredibly wide windowpane checks. Martine Rose had personal slogans woven into jacquards all over her XXXL suits and a collage of pin badges adorning her oversized lapels.

John Lawrence Sullivan went all out inspired by gothic 80's, Tom of Finland and the Matrix, combining big and wide boxy fits with string vests and gloss leather.

Smart Shoes are Returning

Over the last 5 years the world's catwalk runway models and front row attendees have been sporting trainers and boots with ever increasing chunkiness and decoration. This year to great surprise saw the return of the smart shoe.

Up first is Patrick Grant from E. Tautz, known for his voluminous trousers, had his models wear neat loafers with conspicuously un-chunky soles. Grace Wales Bonner combined her interest in tailoring with high-polish Oxfords and two-tone monkstraps. Martin Rose took an avant-garde approach to the smart shoe with wonderfully oversized mid-soles in geometric shapes.

Luxury uniform design has been on a superb journey over the last few years and at Studio 104 we know that our clients want creative impact with their bespoke uniform. Impact that will thrust their hotels, restaurants and stores into the prized limelight, which they understand can be achieved with specialist designer uniform.

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Written by Stephen @ Studio 104